Bal Harbour

90 BAL HARBOUR A few of the sought-after fragrances from Le Labo's 17-scent collection, including the recent addition, Tabac 28, which is exclusive to the brand's Miami boutiques. "IN EVERY PERFUME WE CREATE, we leave a part of ourselves in the bottle," says Fabrice Penot, one half of the dream team that conceived Le Labo, the luxury perfume brand that changed the fragrance game with its establishment in 2006. "I think people can feel that." Lovers of the habit-forming scents would likely agree. e label's proclivity for irreverence and shock, intention and soulfulness, and unstuff y, innovative approach to the age-old practice of perfumery speak to what makes it unique. It's why after 13 years, Le Labo's legion of followers continues to expand, anxiously anticipating each new release. " e world has changed in the last 13 years," says Penot. "Back then, there was very little choice in perfumery for someone who was tired of the marketing tricks played by the designer brands and wanted to wear a great, creative and highly qualitative perfume." He and partner Eddie Roschi were so counter-commercial that their initial motto was "focus on creation and hope for business." In fact, Le Labo launched without formal investor funding, without advertising and without hiding the ingredients in their meticulously sculpted unisex scents (think about that one for a minute—have you ever seen an ingredients list on a perfume bottle?). Bal Harbour's new 960-square-foot boutique features the same industrial design that's as signature to the brand as its New York City birthplace, the latter being chosen for practical purposes: the founders knew if the concept didn't quickly succeed, it would quickly fail, and they would move on to create something else. "We wanted the quickness of what New York is all about and also the aesthetics and the aptitude to embrace novelty," says Roschi. eir approach to creation is not unlike another New York industry, the art market: Roschi and Penot treat perfumery as an art form and, like a gallery, collect works by the most creative, emotionally tuned-in artisans on the planet. "We are obsessed with moving people," says Penot. " ere is a mystical element to that, which 'smart, reasonable business people' in charge of traditional brands can't really grasp; the resulted soul of the perfume is our competitive advantage." Indeed, they also contribute their own compositions, like the Santal 26 candle Penot dreamed up in all its leathery, smoky goodness. It was the precursor to the iconic Santal 33, a 2011 fragrance virtually any American with a pulse point has sniff ed at one time—perhaps in a hotel lobby, on a passerby or quite likely on themselves. e overwhelming popularity is a mixed bag of emotions for its creator—it has on occasion overshadowed beloved scents: think Rose 31 (which has at its core precious centifolia rose harvested each May in Grasse, France), é Noir 29, Another 13 and Bergamote 22. But it's also opened doors, namely the sale of Le Labo to Estée Lauder, bringing the full library of sensorial aromas more exposure. at entire 17-scent Le Labo collection is on hand in the Bal Harbour boutique, including the Miami exclusive Tabac 28, a rich, sensual and smoldering collage of aromatic tobacco, cedar wood, oud and green cardamom that springs to mind a smooth Cuban cigar. e newest product extension, deodorant, joins hair, body and home goods. And true to its chic laboratory roots and focus on craft, each fragrance is freshly blended by hand in the shop and fi nished with a personalized label bearing its new owner's name. Says Penot, "Our labs are like an entertainment park for the nose, and the perfume you bring home is a souvenir." Senses Heightened Cult-favorite Le Labo opens its doors at Bal Harbour Shops, further elevating its esoteric brand of French-infused, New York City-born fragrances. BY KATHRYN ROMEYN

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