Issue link: https://www.balharbourdigital.com/i/1218237
What was your first encounter with the region? "When I first drove through Puglia, I was astounded at the beauty of the northernmost coastline called the Gargano—those perched villages and the stony fields dropping down to azure water. I kept saying, 'Why does everyone go to the crowded Amalfi coast? is is so beautiful.' I was enchanted by the bright, clear light that looks transparent. I saw quickly that there's an overwhelming amount to discover—castles and Romanesque architecture, the ancient trulli structures, isolated villages with interesting places to stay, the masserie, old fortified farmhouses now converted into sybaritic inns." What makes Puglia such a desirable spot in Italy right now? "e great bonus is the cuisine and wine—what a pleasure. I could go there for the bread alone. e loaves are enormous, with a cake-like texture and vibrant taste of good, pure wheat. Great wine is amazingly inexpensive. Cooks put big emphasis on vegetables, especially bitter greens and, of course, on seafood. I like visiting vineyards and also producers of water buffalo mozzarella. Visitors usually go to Puglia for the stupendous beaches but, like me, many fall in love with the food and the inland villages." As an Italy expert, what makes Puglia unique? "Look at the map—what a long, spiny stretch south, and along both the Adriatic and the Ionian Seas. Water, water, everywhere. Because it was Greek (some villages still have language remnants), and was raided and colonized by many marauders—Byzantine, Norman, Arab, etc.— the cultural influences are rich and varied. Often on one church, you can trace four different styles converging. And a great many prehistoric structures remain—stone dolmens and menhirs, domes and pyramidal structures, just standing out in fields. I especially love the ancient, huge olive trees, groves of them like old spirits twisting. ey are lovely in spring when the ground is covered in a tapestry of wildflowers." Italian Love Affair Frances Mayes, the bestselling author of "Under The Tuscan Sun," has just released a new book, "Always Italy," which dedicates a chapter to all things Puglia. Masseria Torre Coccaro Frances Mayes and co-author Ondine Cohane PHOTO BY ANDREA WYNER BAL HARBOUR 175