Bal Harbour

BAL HARBOUR 107 IMAGES COURTESY OF CHLOÉ S ustainability may be one of fashion's favorite buzzwords these days, but for Gabriela Hearst, going green is about far more than a trend. The Uruguay-born designer has been among the more outspoken proponents QHUWUVCKPCDNGRTCEVKEGUKPVJGHCUJKQPKPFWUVT[UKPEGUJGƂTUVNCWPEJGF her namesake brand in New York in 2015, and in the intervening years she has not once deviated from that purpose. She turned typically-ignored factors like compostable packaging and dead-stock fabrics into real luxury goods, and in JGNFVJGƂTUVGXGTEGTVKƂGFECTDQPPGWVTCNHCUJKQPUJQY*GCTUVJCUDGGP open about her goal for her brand to use 100 percent repurposed materials, (up from around 50 percent last year). And while her attention has surely been divided since her appointment as creative director for Chloé in December of 2020, her ardor for a more healthy and equitable relationship between the fashion industry and the planet certainly hasn't diminished. Hearst's mission is to get the historically pollutive fashion industry on track to a safer, greener system. Her plan? To bring in changes in sourcing, supply chain, traceability and environmental and social responsibility, while still providing beautiful, covetable products. With the launch of Chloé Craft at the Spring 2022 show in Paris, Hearst demonstrated her steady hand and an elegant, grown-up version of VJGHTGGƃQYKPIDQJGOKCP familiar to followers of a house previously led by the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo. But, this time, the OQUVNWZWTKQWUNQQMUCOQPIVJGHTKPIGƃQYKPIUMKTVUCPFVQODQ[UWKVKPIYGTG also the most ecologically sound. (The show's run—abbreviated to 31 looks from what usually numbers nearly twice that—was itself a nod to achieving a different kind of sustainability in an industry increasingly infamous for both material excess and designer burnout.) "We're launching Chloé Craft because I started to realize that this thing that we're calling 'luxury fashion' feels industrialized. It looks very machine-made," Hearst told a reporter after the show. "I think it's important to go into a re-education of what craft looks like." Chloé Craft pieces are distinguishable via a special label with a spiral logo denoting, as Hearst put it, "techniques that cannot be mimicked by machinery, Gabriela Hearst's sophomore effort at Chloé offers a lot to be excited about. By Alessandra Codinha Consciously Crafty Clockwise from right: Lolla tote bag, made from hand-knotted deadstock silk and vegetable-tanned calfskin; a naturally sourced amethyst and Haliotis iris shell necklace made in collaboration with the social justice organization, Akanjo; a suede and recycled- cashmere Edith bag, all from Gabriela Hearst's Chloé Craft collection.

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