Bal Harbour

126 BAL HARBOUR PHOTOS BY GRAYDON HERRIOTT FROM THE COOK YOU WANT TO BE, COURTESY OF TEN SPEED PRESS atching up with ANDY BARAGHANI, the 33-year-old CHEF and AUTHOR of the new book, The Cook You Want to Be: Everyday Recipes to Impress, about the IRRESISTIBLE aroma of buttered rice, his culinary heroes and his OBSESSION with onion powder. TALI JAFFE MINOR: I devoured your book. How did you first start to develop the story that you wanted to tell? ANDY BARAGHANI: I was approached by a few agencies about six years ago, and I didn't feel like I was ready. And then I wrote a personal essay that had to do with my upbringing as a first-generation American and my ethnicity, along with my sexual identity and how food has kind of helped me cope with those things in my life. Once I did that, I knew that I wanted to write a book that distilled the lessons that I've learned so that I could empower the reader. TJM: I love that, and this book does feel very personal—especially in your approach which is really about using what you have. AB: Exactly. It sounds like you definitely love food and you cook, but I think some people, even if they love food, get discouraged because there's not enough room to explore and to be flexible. Cooking, like with any craft, shouldn't be stagnant; it should be evolving, and that's what brings a lot of joy. TJM: What do you think of the proliferation of food personalities on social media? AB: I think we're seeing trends that have pivoted to people who have a deep interest in videos surrounding food. Some people watch just to be entertained. Some people watch to learn. I think that if the content is inspiring people to cook more and to learn more about food, then it's a good thing. TJM: Are there any cookbooks that caught your eye early on in your career? AB: Mine are so specific to where I grew up, in the Bay Area: Boulevard, The Greens Cookbook and The Zuni Café Cookbook were huge for me. But also certain old no-name Chinese cookbooks that I would obsess over. TJM: What would you say is the hardest part of your job at this point? AB: At this very moment, I'm so excited to see people at events on tour and I'm so grateful that people are even showing up to dinners and signings. I genuinely want to keep the energy up for them. TJM: Who has had the greatest impact on your career? AB: When I look at my career, I think that the people who have inspired me are Cal Peternell, David Tanis, Beth Wells, Ignacio Mattos and obviously Alice Waters. These are restaurant chefs who directly influenced my cooking. But then I also think of my partner; he was a fashion editor and ended up going to digital when no one was doing that. He's constantly evolving and curious. But, if I have to choose a specific individual, I will give it to my mother, because she was the person who gave me the kitchen. She brought me in. TJM: Who do you consider some of your culinary heroes? AB: David Tanis for sure. He is a wizard and has a way in the kitchen that I think is so beautiful. Ignacio Mattos, who basically said I had to forget everything I had learned prior to working in his restaurant, Estela, and it completely changed the way I approach the kitchen. There are so many people who inspire me, especially my contemporaries. DeVonn Francis of Yardi and Susan Kim of Doshi are incredible, thoughtful cooks. I'm really impressed by what Pierce Abernathy, who is a big part of the younger generation's digital front, is doing. And I think Sofia Roe is exquisite. TJM: Something you collect? AB: I've been collecting mortar and pestle sets since I was a teenager. I probably have about 12 from all over the world, and of varying sizes. I would like to give myself credit and think that I chose the mortar and pestle because it is really the earliest cooking tool for breaking an ingredient down. It's still a big part of my philosophy about how you don't need too many tools. TJM: One thing everyone can get rid of in their kitchen? AB: A lot of their knives. You really only need three knives: a chef's knife—your all- purpose knife—a paring knife for smaller tasks like coring a tomato and a serrated bread knife. TJM: An ingredient that you recently discovered and are now obsessed with? AB: Oh, that's a great question. Not too recently, but I would say onion powder. It adds an instant savoriness. It's so damn delicious. TJM: What is one thing we should all do more of at a restaurant? AB: Order a dish that you likely would not have ordered. If you're drawn to a salad or a fried chicken sandwich, why don't you try the crazy random side dish? The worst thing that could happen is that you might not like it. That's maybe a 10, 15 or 20 dollar investment, and either way you will have learned something about that dish, that ingredient, something you like or something you don't, and then you go on. C

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