Bal Harbour

ANIMAL KINGDOM In Coco Chanel's preserved apartment at 31 rue Cambon in Paris, there's a bonafide animal kingdom of priceless objets. Grazing by an inlaid-brick fireplace, a stag and doe stand discreetly. Guarding a sofa, a camel figurine looks stoically across the room. Garnishing panels and screens, birds dart and dash, forever in relief. It's to this realm of historic fauna that Chanel's creative director Virginie Viard and her runway staging collaborator, the multimedia artist Xavier Veilhan, looked for the house's Spring 2023 Couture presentation. Viard's reverie, as a result, found life as embroideries of kittens, corgis, rabbits, deer, and iconic camellias, which can be seen on elegant tops, short tweed suits, or coat dresses. Veilhan's vision came to fruition as oversized mammalian sculptures on the catwalk. Chanel Couture collections traditionally close with a bride—and this time, waist to veil, she was wrapped in a cloud of swallows. Throughout, a lighthearted verve inspired by majorette dancers added pep. Of Spring, Viard said: "I like when the marvelous bursts forth." It was marvelous, indeed. —NICK REMSEN At Burberry, the "first creative expression" of Creative Director Daniel Lee signaled a new era honoring both its heritage and its future. With a hand from filmmaker Tyrone Lebon—who previously collaborated with Lee during his tenure at Bottega Veneta—the creative director featured a class of British superstars like Skepta and Raheem Sterling alongside Burberry's new logo. The design is a nod to the Burberry emblem inaugurated in 1901, the "Equestrian Knight" brandishing a banner that reads "Prorsum," or "forwards" in Latin—a fitting motif for Lee's much anticipated directorship at Burberry. Let It Rain "Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty," on view from May 5 through July 16, will examine Lagerfeld's illustrious career and expansive portfolio of garments and illustrations. The 150 garments on display will survey his tenures at Chanel, Fendi, Chloé, Patou, Balmain, and his eponymous label, a true testament of "Lagerfeld's complex working methodology," according to curator Andrew Bolton. The curation finds its center in painter William Hogarth's theory of the "line of beauty"—dividing the collection into the "straight line," the "serpentine line," and the "satirical line." Each "line" reflects an element of Lagerfeld's iconoclastic taste and ar tistic voice: his interest in modernism, admiration of 18th-century aesthetics, and playful, "razor-sharp" wit. P H OTO BY O L I V I E R S A I L L A N T, I M AG E CO U R T E S Y O F T H E M E T R O P O L I TA N M U S E U M O F A R T; B U R B E R RY C R E AT I V E E X P R E S S I O N BY DA N I E L L E E © CO U R T E S Y O F B U R B E R RY, P H OTO BY T Y R O N E L E B O N; CO U R T E S Y O F C H A N E L Chanel's Spring Couture presentation featured sculptures by artist Xavier Veilhan. A look from the Spring/Summer 2009 Karl Lagerfeld show. Creative Director Daniel Lee's first "creative expression" for Burberry, photographed by Tyrone Lebon. M A T T E R O F S T Y L E 70 BAL HARBOUR

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