Issue link: https://www.balharbourdigital.com/i/1507768
The lobby at Royal Mansour, Marrakech Le Salon de Thé par Pierre Hermé at La Mamounia "THERE'S THIS HY PE , THIS EN ERGY, RIGHT NOW, A N D IT'S MORE A N D MORE V IBRA NT, W HETHER IT'S MUSEU MS, A RCHITECTU RE , MUSIC, FOOD, OR NIGHTLIFE ." —SIMONE MÉRET TE-JAR A THE ITINERARY The vast majority of long-haul flights land in the trafficky capital of Casablanca. From there, you can connect to any of the major destinations in-country. Marrakech, of course, is the major draw, a sexy, shopping-forward destination; pick up some local crafts at Chabi Chic in the industrial zone of Sidi Ghanem, or some delicate, lace-imprinted porcelain by Claire-Anne Willemin. Casablanca itself is less compelling, but Gail Leonard says that the mosque there is one of the most impressive for any non-Muslim to experience. "It has a prayer room with a glass floor right over the sea," she explains. Go to Fes for an old-fashioned medina, one where the alleyways teem with residents rather than tourists and the stores are renowned for their workmanship in brass, plaster, and leather. Tangier is the edgiest option, suffused even now with the illicit loucheness which transfixed Saint Laurent, Bergé, and their circle—the best beaches in that coastal town are on the Atlantic coast. WHO TO HIRE Don't plan a trip to Morocco without the help of Alex Wix of Wix Squared, the most connected travel agent in the country, who can do everything from wrangle private picnics in the desert to arrange private tours of any must-see museum. She recommends a visit in May, when the heat isn't too oppressive, or during fall or winter. "Everyone thinks of it as a sunny destination, but even in winter, there's often cold sun, blue skies, and that lovely crispness in the air," Wix says. GETTING AROUND Remember to make use of the new high-speed rail connections between Casablanca and Tangier, too; the modern, French-designed trains are much more reliable than braving the roads. Per Wix, don't make the mistake of flying the IF YOU GO MOROCCO BLACK BOOK short hop between Casablanca—the de facto hub for all long-haul flights—and Marrakech, as it's highly unlikely that your luggage will make the connection, however much leeway the schedule allows. Better to book a driver for the 90-minute road journey. OTHER ESSENTIALS Morocco is a family-first destination, too, Wix stresses. "Moroccans love children, and they're welcomed everywhere with open arms. When you have kids in tow, suddenly so many more things are possible, and everyone wants to help." WHERE TO STAY In Tangier, hole up at Villa Mabrouka, especially in one of the former servants' quarters rooms that overlook a private veranda. La Mamounia is the premier place to see and be seen in Marrakech: Make sure to book a room with a balcony and pool view, rather than a city view, and don't miss the Pierre Hermé bakery in the heart of the gardens. Grab a macaron before relaxing under one of the towering palm trees. The Royal Mansour's foray into Casablanca is the place to book—that is until the next round of must-visit hotels make their mark on the city. P H OTO CO U R T E S Y O F L A M A M O U N I A BAL HARBOUR 215