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I M AG E S CO U R T E S Y O F S A N TO N I he medieval region of Marche, Italy, about 150 miles east of Florence, riva ls any Tuscan cit y w ith its rolling hills, charming piazzas, and stone-walled architecture dotted with terracotta roofs. Quaint and bucolic, it's a world away from the fashion hub of Milan, and yet its humble environs are an essential part of the modern ethos that has helped Santoni become the subtle-luxe shoemaker for those in the know. "Our evolution is rooted in tradition," says Giuseppe Santoni, the brand's executive president . "The Marche region was a vital center already during the Renaissance—a cradle of knowledge in every field. Today, the region is known for its footwear, as culture and industrious- ness have merged together." Founded in 1975 by Giuseppe's father, Andrea, Santoni has always aimed to create shoes that function like beautiful objects. "Our philoso- phy is that quality cannot be compromised, ever," says Santoni. "However, we have always looked to combine the finest artisanal techniques with new technologies and contemporary design." To that end, the brand employs a sometimes 15-step process to create its signature velatura look a patina eŽect that is the result of applying layer after layer of color to the leather. "The meticulous process requires a substantial number of work- ing hours. Everything is rigorously done by hand, with a first veil of color that is left to absorb, followed by further color applications with a wool cloth," says Santoni. He also points out that it's all in the quality and T IN THE AGE OF QUIET LUXURY, ITALIAN HERITAGE BRANDS ROOTED IN CRAFTSMANSHIP AND CASUAL ELEGANCE ARE HAVING THEIR DAY. FOR SHOEMAKER SANTONI, IT ALL STARTS AT THE BOTTOM. BY SAMANTHA BROOKS STEP and REPEAT CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Andrea and Giuseppe Santoni; Andrea tassel loafers, and models wearing Andrea double-buckle loafers, both from Fall/Winter 2023 MATTER OF STYLE handiwork of the applications, with slow and intentional polishing strokes, and a final step that involves hand-polishing with creams and natural waxes that are applied via cashmere and silk cloths. "The velatura masters pass on the guarded techniques to their pupils," says Santoni, noting that these skills have been honed over decades and generations. While the ver y f irst shoe desig ned by Andrea Santoni, a dou- ble-buckle pump, is still one of the brand's top-sellers, newer oŽerings include everything from slip-on suede desert boots and chunky-heeled leather Chelsea brog ue boots to velvet-and-nubuck double-buck le sneakers for her. For him, classic loafers and driving shoes comprise the bulk of the collection, which now also includes contemporary shoes like blue Chelsea boots feat uring subtle color g rading to spor t y leath- er-and-fabric Hy-Run sneakers with chunky rubber soles. New for fall, they've also launched their Andrea loafer. "It's a perfect fusion between traditional and innovation," says Santoni. "The name is a tribute to my father and the company's roots. It's timeless and gender- less." The company also debuted its Double Buckle bag—a throwback to their classic design—in both tote and weekend sizes; it's available in bright hues ranging from sugar paper to acid yellow, all achieved with the brand's signature multi-step coloring process. "The hand is ever y thing," says Santoni, referencing the human element at the core of the brand. "It shapes, it molds, it colors, and finally, it gives an unrepeatable identity to every object." 82 BAL HARBOUR

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