Bal Harbour

WHAT TO SEE Venice's glories are all generally quite well-trodden, but it never gets old mar veling at the gold mosaics in Basilica di San Marco, riding in a Riva down the Grand Canal, or meandering through the shops on the Ria lto Br idge. However, some slight ly more un- der-t he-rada r places a re a lso wor t h your t ime. The For t uny Museum, for instance, where you can see firsthand the couturier Mariano For t uny's one-time st udio. Or the Pegg y Guggenheim Collection in the former canalside mansion of the ar t-collecting heir, who called Venice home for the second half of her life. The lit- tle-known Fondazione Giorgio Cini—a sprawling cultural center with excellent temporary exhibitions opposite Piazza San Marco on the minuscule San Giorgio Maggiore island—is worth an after- noon's wander. So is the San Michele Cemeter y, a small outcrop halfway between Venice and Murano. The latter deserves a day trip to visit the still-functioning glass ateliers and wonderfully eclectic Venice Glass Museum. If you're keen to bring home a uniquely Venetian souvenir, the glass brand Giber to, run by Count Giber to Arrivabene Valenti Gonzaga, recently opened its first outpost in a Rialto Bridge store- front selling beautifully handmade Murano glass home accessories. Another contemporar y local glass maker, Lag una~B, occupies a small shop in Dorsoduro on the west side of the Grand Canal. The products, including colorful cups with abstract designs and vibrantly striped vessels, o‹er a more playful take on the historic craft. For exquisite fabrics and textiles handmade in Italy, designer Chiarastella Cattana's shop is a must-visit. And for those ubiquitous Friulane slippers, the almond-toe velvet flat you see worn by chic Venetians, there are several local makers to choose from, including ViBi Venezia, sold at Al Duca d'Aosta in Piazza San Marco; Le fri- ulane di Massimo Dittura; and Piedàterre. A canal vista from the Venice Venice Hotel restaurant WHERE TO DINE Dining out in Venice can be hit or miss. It takes a keen eye to sepa- rate the tourist traps from the beloved local eateries and ambitious new restaurant concepts. Furthermore, traditional Venetian cui- sine can be more challenging to the palate than mainland Italian fare. For some, dishes like sarde in saor—a sweet and sour concoc- tion consisting of sardines, onions, raisins, and vinegar—creamed codfish known as baccalà mantecato, and squid ink pasta are an ac- quired taste. That said, there are a host of places experimenting with contemporary interpretations of these uniquely Venetian fla- vors. At Hostaria Castello, located a few streets away from the Arsenale, try the sautéed calamari with fennel cream, ricotta and spinach ravioli with smoked eggplant, or tuna steak with sautéed chicory and marinated onion. The canalside El Magazen serves a tasting menu that includes bu‹alo burrata with sturgeon caviar and soqquadro pasta with ragu and chestnuts. In Cannaregio, along the northern edge of the island, Estro Vino e Cucina's grilled octopus with potato cream and celeriac, and garlic pasta with langoustines are standouts. Nearby is Dama, a relatively new space known for delicate vegetarian dishes and seafood. Pietra Rossa by Andrea Lorenzon is another vaunted newcomer specializing in local cui- sine and natural wine. However, if you're craving something di‹er- ent after immersing yourself in the regional flavors of the floating city, the recently opened Bacán o‹ers Latin American cuisine and an impressive array of mezcal. RIGHT One of 13 suites at the Nolinski Venezia hotel, which opened last summer. BELOW Group exhibition "Julie Mehretu. Ensemble" is on view at Palazzo Grassi through January 2025. BAL HARBOUR 61 BALHARBOURSHOPS.COM P H OTO BY G U I L L AU M E D E L AU B I E R A N D T H O M A S VO L L A I R E ( H OT E L S U I T E); P H OTO BY M A R CO C A P P E L L E T T I © PA L A Z ZO G R A S S I, P I N AU LT CO L L E C T I O N ( A R T ); P H OTO BY V E N I C E V E N I C E C R E AT I V E T E A M (R E S TAU R A N T )

• Cover