Issue link: https://www.balharbourdigital.com/i/1532915
P H OTO S BY L AW S O N B U I L D E R ( BY T H E WAY ) ; R U TA S M I T H ( K U LT U R A ) CHEF NIKKO CAGALANAN OF KULTURA, A 2024 JAMES BEARD AWARD FINALIST Chef's journey I moved from the Philippines to Boston in 2011, and was working as a nurse. I eventually changed careers to embrace my passion for food, and found my way to Charleston in 2018. When I got here, there was a big gap in terms of diversity in the food scene, with very few people representing their [own] cultural food. I was doing pop-ups around town, collaborating with other chefs, and finally opened Kultura. We have been lucky to receive a lot of recognition; I could never have imagined that I would have been part of that conversation. Cooking inspirations We have this Filipino adobo dish on the menu, but instead of rice, I use grits, cooking them with coconut milk and aromatics. It's my Southern twist! The best way to collaborate, for me, is to think about local ingredients from the incredible fishmongers and farmers in the area. Charleston favorites Right now they are Estadio, a female-owned tapas restaurant; Renzo and Jackrabbit Filly for Asian food. Signature dishes The Filipino rice porridge, with lemongrass, ginger, and scallion. It's what my lola (grandmother) would make me when I wasn't feeling well. It's a very nostalgic dish for me. Also, the red curry dish with snapper that is slow roasted; there's a lot of coconut milk, ginger, lemongrass, and calamansi, and a very simple carrot salad on top. Diners' experience I just want them to feel like they are in my grandmother's house, getting fed great food. CHEF MARCUS SHELL OF BY THE WAY, A COZY NEIGHBORHOOD SPOT ELEVATING AMERICAN FARE. Chef's journey My food is calculated and well thought out. It's hard to find ways to do things differently these days... a way to truly take ownership. I cook with my heart and compose with my mind. Cooking inspirations My role is to continuously raise the bar by highlighting local, fresh, and beautiful ingredients as often as possible, while pushing the limits of what ingredients pair well together and what applications are typically used. Charleston favorites My desire to stand out and be different is a driving force in what I do. It's very easy to see the culinary and hospitality greatness when you set foot in Charleston. For me, inspiration stems from seeing people succeed in something that they truly love. There is no shortness of that here. Places like Graft and Kultura, whose chefs and teams have their own stories of how they came to be and the integrity in which they operate, continue to be an inspiration to me. Signature dishes A standout to me, the true American item, is the burger—a classic tavern-style patty that's dressed up with Bibb lettuce, caramelized onions, tomato jam, and sharp cheddar. The beef blend is fantastic, and with a simple seasoning of salt and pepper, it's quite the favorite among patrons. Diners' experience Happiness. Food brings me such joy. The real treat is having the platform to create it in my vision, having teammates who trust me to do it well, and sharing it with strangers. CLOCKWISE The Kamayan Feast at Kultura spotlights a variety of Filipino specialties; the bar at By The Way and its fried oysters with caviar and Fox Den wings. BALHAR B O U RSH O P S .CO M