Bal Harbour

J O S H B R A S T E D ; Z AC H S M I T H P H OTO G R A P H Y/ N E W O R L E A N S . C O M ; J U S T E N W I L L I A M S / 3 4 3 M E D I A ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E B R A N D S WHAT TO PACK A N I G HT O UT The jazz clubs are calling your name. Lean into the retro vibe with these easy pieces. -- stylish Hotel Saint Vincent is an ideal stop for a quick bite in the Paradise Lounge—though, once amidst its artfully appointed decor, you may find yourself looking for a reason to linger. If you prefer to stay inside for your historical tour, consider the oft-overlooked The Presbytère, once a residence for clergy and now a state museum with two permanent exhibits. The first chronicles the timeline of Mardi Gras, from its medieval roots to the raucous present-day celebration that attracts millions (complete with displays of elaborate floats and bejeweled costumes). A second section tells the story of Hurricane Katrina, its aftermath, and the area's ongoing recovery efforts. LATE AFTERNOON Refresh yourself Cocktails and New Orleans go hand in hand. Make your way to Jewel of the South, a darling brick cottage with cornflower blue shutters that's home to one of the city's finest bars, thanks to mixology legend Chris Hannah. Nosh on caviar or fried okra with white bean and chili crisp as you nurse a Righteous Harlot, made with vodka, dragon fruit cordial, St. Germain, and sparkling wine. Or opt for the classic Sazerac, born in the Crescent City in the 1850s. EVENING All that jazz An intimate, no-frills room with fantastic acoustics, beloved Preservation Hall has been a fixture for live music since the 1960s. The story goes that local jazz musicians were invited to rehearse in an art gallery along St. Peter Street in the French Quarter, and soon enough, the improvisational, blues-influenced music took over, and the gallery moved out. The venue was also lauded as a rare inclusive space during the charged segregation era. The nightly music led to the creation of the Preservation Hall Jazz Band, a collective of some 50-plus traditional jazz musicians who rotate in small ensembles and now perform 360 nights of the year. (Note: Be sure to purchase tickets in advance, as shows sell out.) Day MORNING Fuel up Head to breakfast at Miss River, adorned with pink quartzite countertops, antiqued mirrors, scalloped floor tiles and velvet banquettes. Billed as celebrated chef Alon Shaya's love letter to Louisiana, the bright indoor-outdoor restaurant particularly excels at brunch, with a bountiful Bloody Mary bar, buttermilk-fried chicken and biscuits, muffaletta sandwiches, and red beans and rice (most ingredients are proudly sourced from local fishermen, farmers, and purveyors). Live jazz on weekends heightens the jovial ambiance. AFTERNOON Art walk Adjacent to the New Orleans Museum of Art, the recently expanded Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden sits on about 11 acres in City Park, dotted with magnolias, pines, and moss-covered live oaks, and surrounded by two lagoons. It's a stunning backdrop for the 90-plus sculptures that comprise the garden. Among them: a bronze head of Jean d'Aire (a prominent figure in the French city of Calais) by Auguste Rodin; Mother and Child by Fernando Botero; Larry Bell's translucent glass cube-within-a-cube Pacific Red (VI); and George Rodrigue's three- sided dog titled We Stand Together. For a scenic ride, take the Canal streetcar line back toward downtown. Make time for cocktail hour at Jewel of the South. Preservation All Stars performing at live music fixture Preservation Hall Artist Larry Bell's Pacific Red (VI), 2016–2017, at the NOMA Sculpture Garden GUCCI cotton bouclé mini dress SCANLAN THEODORE Milano shirt SCANLAN THEODORE skirt GIANVITO ROSSI Joyce boots SCANLAN THEODORE BALHAR B O U RSH O P S .CO M ; B UYI N G I N D E X , PAG E 20 6

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