Bal Harbour

Fall 2025

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sophisticated techniques. Equestrian influences appear in riding pants, lavalier ties, and boots with spurs, while British checks, tweeds, and tartans accent fluid corduroy culottes and trenches. An alpaca and mohair coat mimicking crocodile scales with sequins stands out, along with knitted cardigans reimagining Prince of Wales patterns. For Cucinelli, clothes must be artisanal yet effortless. "While precious, they should be worn with ease," he said, noting that "imperfect" touches, like baguette-cut crystals on a simple chevron dress, add authenticity and charm. Beyond fashion and his new workshop in Penne, Italy, a town historically known for its sartorial menswear production, Cucinelli is deeply involved in winemaking, producing approximately 9,000 bottles a year of Castello di Solomeo. "They're not for profit," he says. "They pay tribute to Italy, to the land, to dignity." In celebration, he tapped renowned sommelier Daniel Johnnes at La Paulée (an annual over-the-top Burgundy enthusiasts dinner party held in New York and San Francisco) to design a multi-day fete in Solomeo. It was so successful, says Cucinelli, it will return next year. As a grandfather, one of his most moving projects this year was penning the foreword for "Father and Child," a photography book by Claiborne Swanson Frank and published by Assouline. In it, he writes lovingly of his late father, Umberto, who lived to see his son's success and influence. "He was my role model of patience and dignity," he says. When Umberto passed away at 100, Cucinelli spent the night beside him, holding his hand. "We talked about life, about everything. He wasn't interested in the Forbes ranking. He said, Do you want to be the richest man in the graveyard?" to which Cucinelli replied, chuckling: "It's not difficult, it's such a small cemetery." But the lesson remained. "Keep your feet on the ground," his father always said. That humility underpins everything Cucinelli creates, from his high- buttoned blazers to his Umbrian wine. His values are as Roman as they are revolutionary. An ardent student of philosophy, he recites, "Live with honesty. Do not harm anyone. To each, their due." These ancient principles, he believes, are still our best blueprint for a just society—and a meaningful business. "Walk with your feet grounded on the earth," he says, "but keep your gaze toward the sky." At the Fall/Winter presentations at Casa Cucinelli in Milan, the Women's collection called on equestrian influences, while the Men's collection featured preppy looks and a nod to British patterns and tailoring. "Our clothes, while precious, should be worn with ease." —BRUNELLO CUCINELLI BALHAR B O U RSH O P S .CO M

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