Bal Harbour

WHAT (NOT) TO SAY The weekly cocktail party thrown by the Mustique Company at Cotton House each Tuesday night is the apex of the social scene here and a chance to make new friends; villa guests can mingle here and strike up conversation. DO SAY: Nice to meet you. We'd love to invite you over for supper this week. The premise of the cocktail party is to get to know your week's neighbors—expect them to issue invitations, to drinks, dinner, or a game of tennis. Feel free to reciprocate. DON'T SAY: Isn't that Prince George playing over there? Yes, the Royal Family remain regular visitors here, often accompanied by the Princess of Wales' parents, Carole and Michael Middleton. One major appeal for them is how the trio of Wales children go unremarked upon, and are able to have as normal an experience as possible, so avoid pointing them out. WHAT TO KNOW Tatiana Copeland is a longtime part-time resident, and owns the four-bedroom Toucan Hill villa; no one is better placed to offer an insider's perspective than the Washington, D.C.–based philanthropist. "One of the first things you'll probably notice is how safe it is, and truly relaxing—there are no tours, no mobs, no boat noise," she says, "It's the absence of things: high rises, cars, and tourists. You can leave your home unlocked." Even the wealthiest visitors, she says, will be startled. "You can create a week of a life you don't normally live at home, as all the planning is done by someone else." WHAT TO READ There are a few essential books to browse when you're in Mustique—don't worry about bringing them, though, as most homes will have spare copies lying around somewhere. Anne Glenconner's memoir, "Lady in Waiting: My Extraordinary Life in the Shadow of the Crown," is a dishy look at Mustique's early days of development from the woman who witnessed it up close, while Sarah McCoy's "Mustique Island" looks at the same period through a fictional lens with much more leeway. The Assouline-published "Mustique Icon" is a chance to dip back into the same heady, royal-tinged first heyday through more than 200 photos and a foreword written by, who else, Mick Jagger. WHAT TO DO Though the island is synonymous with sybaritic excess, those who are keen to break a healthy sweat have options, too. • The Mustique Company's director of sales, Pippa Ona, suggests horse riding. Head down to L'Ansecoy beach to go wading through the waters on horseback. • Ona loves hiking the rugged landscape, especially at sunrise or sunset. She calls the 90-minute North Point hike along the edge of the coastline (start at Cotton House) "not for the faint of heart," while the walk around Gun Hill in the south is more suitable for all fitness levels. • Keep an eye out for which tennis pros are on island—you'll find that international-caliber players will make unexpected appearances and are ready to challenge the cockiest amateur. "Tends to be a bit of a surprise," says Ona. "Someone comes and Omigod, they're playing tennis with Tim Henman." There is of course an on-staff tennis coaching team (including their resident pro Richard Schaffer), too, who will happily do everything from arrange lessons to pair guests with other visitors of similar skill levels for matches. C O U R T E S Y O F T H E M U S T I Q U E C O M PA N Y; L A R U FOTO , P H OTO BY LU I S A N TO N I O R U I Z ( H O R S E S ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F A S S O U L I N E ( A S S O U L I N E . C O M ) them to a game of ge playing visitors cess of iddleton. e trio of and are as FROM TOP Hiking the rugged landscapes that are typical in the Grenadines; with a foreword by longtime homeowner Mick Jagger, "Mustique Icon" (Assouline) is a must-read; modish Tortuga villa; wading through the island's famously clear waters on horseback The vibe on Mustique is distinctly low-key, however starry the guest. 138 138 BALHAR B O U RSH O P S .CO M

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