Issue link: https://www.balharbourdigital.com/i/1546381
earning for some saucy, old-school fun? A wave of '90s nostalgia continues to ripple across fall runways and the broader pop-culture stratosphere. Think Demna's revival of Tom Ford–era looks at Gucci (including a revisit of the iconic 1997 exposed G-string) and Marc Jacobs's self-referential nod to his 1993 grunge revolution at Perry Ellis. Chemena Kamali evoked early-'90s grunge at Chloé, while a bevy of designers threw it back with over-the-knee boots, slip dressing, and riffs on ballgown skirts. Minimalist styles collectively crushed on the period's It girl, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, reignited by Ryan Murphy's FX series Love Story. Another '90s style icon, Chloë Sevigny, rocked the runway at Miu Miu, as did zigzag headbands and pared-down sportswear. Ah, the simple pleasures of cigarettes and a bubble bath gossip sesh on a curly-cord telephone! Leave it to OG Isaac Mizrahi to capture the vibe of '90s fabulosity in Douglas Keeve's 1995 documentary Unzipped, scheduled for a September re-release. Offering an intimate, behind-the-scenes glimpse into the creation of Mizrahi's Nanook of the North–inspired Fall 1994 collection, the film features a who's who of one-name Supers: Naomi, Kate, Linda, Cindy, Christy. Eartha Kitt sashays in for a fitting. Sandra Bernhard flits in and out. Crawford's then-husband Richard Gere even makes a cameo. Polly Mellen, Allure's creative director at the time, sums up the era's aesthetic: "Fussy? Finished!" London-born Supers Naomi and Kate make another splash in the exhibition "The 90s: Art and Fashion," on October 8 at Tate Britain in London. Curated by former British Vogue Editor-in-Chief Edward Enninful, the show delves into the decade's cheeky optimism with a lens on influential, emerging creatives in Britain. The opening act? Early imagery from edgy, street- style fanzines i-D and Dazed and Confused, which disrupted high fashion and defined the raw spirit of the era. The displays span from paintings and sculptures to photos, films, and garments. Throughout the '90s, journalist-turned– fashion stylist Elizabeth Stewart—who counts Julia Roberts, Cate Blanchett, Amanda Seyfried, and Viola Davis as clients—worked in the throes of the scene as a fashion editor for Women's Wear Daily, W, and the New York Times Magazine. "There is no '90s fashion core memory stronger than a thong peeping out from low-rise pants any time anyone bent over at a photo shoot," says Stewart. "It was just a given! And a stroke of genius for Gucci to put '90s icon Kate Moss in the 'thong' gown this year." Here, Stewart weighs in on the signs of the times. The irreverent era of Supers, slip dressing, and grunge is having a cultural renaissance. BY INGRID SCHMIDT ' 90s redux Y 201 201