Bal Harbour

Spring 2015

Issue link: https://www.balharbourdigital.com/i/468853

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 97 of 227

96 BAL HARBOUR Nicolas Ghesquière, creative director at Louis Vuitton. And let's wave hello to the wacky Jeremy Scott at Moschino, who presented a Barbie-doll-themed show in Milan last Fall, a goofy event that totally captured the spirit of this fun-loving company. (And, admit it, who among us hasn't wanted to look like Barbie at least once in her life?) But not every new designer is exquisitely sensitive to the sensibilities of a historic brand. At Balmain, the adorable young Olivier Rousteing is now in charge. If his super-sexy, hot-as-Hades offerings don't remind you at first blush of Pierre Balmain's elegant tailleurs, then his forte of accoutering "it" girls will. In his time, didn't Balmain himself dress bright young things? And what of that cool cat Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy? If his designs seem to veer far from Givenchy's original vision (Hubert de Givenchy never did show fabulous gypsy-gladiator mini-dresses like Tisci did last season), couldn't it be argued that Erykah Badu and Julia Roberts, both Givenchy enthusiasts, are the new Audrey Hepburns? And let's not forget accessories-based firms that have great monikers but no fashion cred to speak of. When Marc Jacobs arrived at Louis Vuitton in 1997, the label had never done clothes, so Jacobs was able to bring his wildest fantasies to life with no imaginary toes to tread on. Now Nicolas Ghesquière, who took over in November 2013, has similar freedom—replacing Jacobs' extravaganzas with an irresistible, sleek '70s sensibility—at least so far. Or, take a look at the Spanish brand Loewe, an enterprise that has been providing the international haute bourgeoisie with purses since the 19th century. In 2007, the label hired Stuart Vevers, formerly at Mulberry, who hung around for a few seasons before he crossed the Atlantic, decamping to Coach, yet another handbag hub expanding into fashion. Though Vevers is British, he has infused Coach's clothes with a preppy Americana vibe, even offering one notable pullover decorated with the Apollo spacecraft. Did Loewe fold up its fashion tent after Vever's departure? No way! It wasted no time, giving the job to the quirky British wunderkind J.W. Anderson. Phew! This is exhausting. But let's press on! No roster of this kind would be complete without a discussion of perhaps the most fascinating switcheroo of all—the appointment of John Galliano as creative director at Maison Margiela. After the controversy following Galliano's infamous 2011 incident—no need to rehash here—he has come roaring back to life. Many fashion pundits wondered aloud about the improbability of a showman like Galliano taking over a house whose namesake was so famously elusive. (Monsieur Margiela was never even photographed, and I know from personal experience that he would only be interviewed by fax!) But somehow, Galliano has managed to meld his own flamboyance with Margiela's more austere aesthetic, showing a spectacular artisanal couture collection in London in January. What does all this mean to you? Only this: Rejuvenated houses and excited new designers will invariably result in gorgeously innovative, unexpectedly fabulous fashions on the racks! And isn't that what you're really shopping for this Spring? REJUVENATED HOUSES AND NEW DESIGNERS WILL INVARIABLY RESULT IN INNOVATIVE FASHIONS THIS SPRING.

Articles in this issue

Archives of this issue

view archives of Bal Harbour - Spring 2015