Bal Harbour

finally arrive at the hallowed gilded gates of the Golden Door following a two-hour drive from Los Angeles towards San Diego, through the picturesque, winding hillside near Escondido, California. Really, though, my journey to get here has taken far longer than that. I have heard much about this legendary retreat throughout the years—both from my friends and colleagues, who have spoken of its life-changing remedies, and from tales about its storied history and pedigree. Perhaps the most famous spa resort in the United States, the getaway was founded in 1958 by wellness pioneer Deborah Szekely, and was a favorite of Hollywood luminaries like Natalie Wood and Elizabeth Taylor. These days, the Golden Door plays host to the likes of Oprah Winfrey, Nicole Kidman and—most recently—comedian Amy Schumer, as well as titans of industry and other luminaries from all walks of life. After years of tending to the well-being of others, the resort has undergone a transformation of its own, under new owner Joanne Conway—the wife of billionaire philanthropist William Conway, Jr.—a devoted patron who visited 22 times before purchasing the Golden Door in 2012 in an effort to preserve it for future generations. And what a job Conway has done. In addition to acquiring the surrounding land, and expanding the grounds from 377 to 600 acres, she enlisted renowned New York-based interior designer Victoria Hagan to oversee a full makeover of the 40 Japanese ryokan-style guest rooms and lobby. She also hired fashion veteran Kathy Van Ness to serve as COO and general manager, upgraded the programming (including new select co-ed and men's-only weeks; it was formerly a women's-only retreat), and brought in biodynamic and organic gardens and orchards, as well as a new executive chef Greg Frey Jr., formerly of San Francisco's Rubicon and Bernardus Lodge and Spa in Carmel Valley. And in an unprecedented move, Conway created The Golden Door Foundation, pledging to donate 100% of all proceeds from the resort and products to select charities, mostly those that support victims of child abuse—almost like a Newman's Own for hospitality. "Every single week, we transform people's lives, whether we get them to think or pause or get healthy or change their diets, or just look at themselves in the mirror and say, 'Hey, this is where I am on the planet,'" Van Ness explains to me. "And through our charitable mission, we transform children's lives outside of our doors as well." Now, as the resort settles into its new look and purpose, I am finally ready to check in and experience the magic for myself. When you walk through the golden doors and across the yatsuhashi-inspired footbridge to the entrance of the property, you're told to leave your thoughts and problems outside. Not only do you surrender yourself emotionally to the process, but you shed yourself physically— rather than wear your everyday clothes, each guest is given a uniform of athletic wear for the day and comfortable robes for night. The preparation for my visit began months ago, via phone conversations with the pre-arrival team to go over my wishes for my stay. My goal was to use the seven days as a time for self-reflection and awareness, and also to give myself the opportunity to focus on my health, exercise and hopefully recharge after a long, eventful year. As soon as I stepped foot on the property and walked around the peaceful gardens and grounds, I knew that this would be easy to achieve. I was taken to my guest room—a serene oasis decorated in earthy, neutral tones—and settled in for the journey ahead. Over the week, guests' experiences are completely customized for individual needs and requests, with the first half of every day dedicated to personal training and group activities. Mornings begin with a hike—anything from slow-paced meditation walks to much more rigorous climbs to the mountain summit—followed by breakfast, either enjoyed in solitude in your room, or in the common dining area. Unlike some wellness retreats that force guests to follow rigid diets, at the Golden Door food is treated as a necessity and treat. One morning, you may be served avocado toast with cherry tomatoes and feta cheese, and the next day, citrus ricotta pancakes. The concept is that each day, you will eat about 1,200-1,500 calories, and burn anywhere from 2,000-3,000. "We're not about teaching people to starve and diet," Ness says. "We're about teaching that if you put in your mouth what you're supposed to, like every other animal on this earth, you won't have a weight issue. You have to put fresh, healthy food into your system that you can digest fast and get out." And with so many activities, the calories go fast. I worked with fitness lead Melinda Nelson, who guided me through Pilates, yoga and cardio training over the seven days. Group classes included 134 BAL HARBOUR I

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