Bal Harbour

I n February 1929, just as the cult of the automobile was first gaining speed, a clutch of Gilded Age petrolheads set out on an untested journey. They spent four days traveling almost 700 miles between Paris and the Côte d'Azur, testing both the limits of their cars' performance, and their own navigational skills. The winner, like every other competitor in the race, was a woman, Madame Lietard. She helped the rally become a legendary event in modern France and a pioneering feminist gesture. So much so, in fact, that entrepreneur Viviane Zaniroli (wife of Paris-Dakar rally director Patrick Zaniroli) resolved to create a contemporary counterpart that channeled the same "spirit of femininity, glamour and sports." The result: the Rallye des Princesses, where adventurous, all-female teams drive classic cars from Paris to St Tropez. The first such Rallye was in 2000. Zaniroli preserved many aspects of the original, though she did extend the race to six days. With GPS and other high tech navigation tools banned, drivers and their co-pilots must rely solely on old-fashioned map reading skills. She has made one key change in the race versus the 1920s original: it takes place in the summer, so drivers can enjoy better weather. There are lunch stops, too, and the chance to regroup each night in a five-star room en route. Just 18 crews competed in that inaugural, in 2000; this year, almost 100 different cars took to the course, with vehicles shipped in from as far away as London or Newport Beach, California. "More than 3,000 women have entered," says Zaniroli. "They come from all social strata—some are CEOs, doctors, lawyers, office workers or nurses. They're competitive to the bone, and all driven by the same desire." Zaniroli is particularly proud of the diversity among drivers—the oldest competitor, so far at least, was Mi-Jo, who entered with her daughter in a MG Midget MKII from 1965 as part of her 80th birthday celebration. Fittingly, the winner in 2000 was Caroline Bugatti, granddaughter of speed demon Ettore, who drove her family's 35B from 1927; a few years later Sylvie Tellier, model and former Miss France, came in an impressive fourth. Swiss watchmaker Richard Mille recently signed up to be the Rallye's long-term sponsor. Mille, whose eponymous brand of luxury watches has sports in its DNA—from partnerships with golfer Bubba Watson or tennis player Rafael Nadal—always insists that his watches are rugged enough to be both worn and cherished. "I am not afraid to go to the battlefield—when I work with top athletes, the only obligation is that they must wear their watch during their sport," he says, "I don't want to make a watch that you put in the safe waiting for the next generation." To wit, a number of drivers in this year's Rallye could be seen sporting a Richard Mille on their wrist. While women represent about 25 percent of the company's sales, the event provided an opportunity to reinforce the connection. "It's very charming, and a bit romantic," says Mille, who is also a passionate classic car rally driver, racing a Lola T70 from the early 1970s. He's intrigued by Zaniroli's plans to reroute the course next year, likely to the Atlantic Coast near Biarritz, before it celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2019 with a return to St Tropez. "It's women- only, so I'm not admitted, and not welcome," he laughs, "I can only be there cheering at the start." 202 BAL HARBOUR Nearly 100 cars were driven in this year's Rallye des Princesses, a six-day course from Paris to St Tropez. "I am not afraid to go to the battlefield—when I work with top sportspeople, the only obligation is that they must wear their watch during their sport." —Richard Mille COURTESY RICHARD MILLE

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