Issue link: https://www.balharbourdigital.com/i/262375
80 BAL HARBOUR Shoemakers have long used technology to give a modicum of comfort and modernity to traditional men's footwear. Now, for Spring, designers are employing more texture, Technicolor and Old World dye techniques to offer men's shoes—from heavy dress brogues and bluchers to loafers and sneakers—a healthy dose of fashion and versatility as well. The idea that a shoe could be both textural and technical is a notion first advanced by Bottega Veneta, the Italian luxury brand most recognized for its proprietary leather weaving technique known as intrecciato. The concept requires ultra-thin strips of leather—thin enough to maneuver under the needle of a sewing machine—that are later woven together for both textural beauty and maximum durability. That signature, first created in the 1960s, has guided designer Tomas Maier throughout his tenure with the Venetian fashion house, which has figured out a way to employ the intrecciato method on everything from bags and belts to footwear. Maier's shoe of desire this season is a loosely woven peekaboo loafer in a variety of subtle dark colors and shapes (including dress slip-ons, lace-ups and slippers) sitting on a stylishly thin leather sole that he pairs with everything from retro-inspired gray flannel suits to casual roll-neck knitwear. The versatility of the woven form has also caught the attention of other designers, many of whom have rallied behind the weave, be it applied via leather, cloth, ribbon or even raffia. Always an innovator, Giorgio Armani weaves his magic this Spring on a collection of 1930s-inspired, two- toned spectators made of perforated leather and natural raffia that look thoroughly modern, especially given the footwear's chunky white sole—another strong trend. The Milanese master uses the same trick in ART& SOLE Watch out for fancy footwear this season as the men's fashion industry continues to boom. BY WILLIAM KISSEL Bally calf suede Balboan lace-ups with Flex Tech sole