Issue link: https://www.balharbourdigital.com/i/44746
GUY THING IT'S A Make room in the closet, there's a luxury menswear renaissance afoot. BY WILLIAM KISSEL S tep off the elevator onto the newly re- modeled third floor at Neiman Marcus Bal Harbour this fall and the first thing you'll notice is that everything within the cavernous 16,000-square-foot- space—from tailored clothing and sportswear to accessories and leather goods—has been retooled to accommodate the needs of the modern man. Gone is women's contemporary sportswear and the store's home decor gallery, replaced with an entire floor devoted exclusively to the sartorial whims of men, among the shining stars of the lux- ury fashion business this year. "The good news is that the men's business is healthy again; all four men's divisions (sportswear, tailored clothing, furnishings and shoes) are run- ning over last year and over plan. We're up to our peak volumes," Neiman Marcus' senior vice pres- ident and general merchandise manager Russ Patrick recently told MR, the monthly men's fash- ion trade magazine. Much of that growth stems from a broader interest and understanding of fash- ion, a result of instant information available through the Internet, and greater acceptance of high style in men's wardrobes thanks to a prolifer- ation of fashion, cooking and other lifestyle shows. Over the past decade de- signers like Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Ermenegildo Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli, among others, have also pushed the lifestyle approach to dressing, creating complete wardrobes that take the affluent customer from the conference room to the club house with relative ease. For Neiman's and other upscale stores, the only way to present this ever- expanding range of men's products is to literally break through the walls that confined them in the past. "The new men's store will be about 3,500-square-feet larger, which is significant, and from the moment you step off that elevator you'll know you're in a store for men, which is a totally different dynamic than what we have now," notes Frances Esquenazi, vice president/general manager of Neiman Marcus Bal Harbour. Esquenazi says the men's store expansion is only a small part of a complete renovation of the iconic Bal Harbour shop, which is expected to be completed by next summer. Most of the additional space will be used to create new state-of-the-art shops-within-shops for hot men's fashion brands like Stefano Ricci, Brioni, Ermenegildo Zegna, and the newly-launched Tom Ford ready-to-wear brand. Meanwhile the store's proprietary Zodiac Restaurant will remain on the third floor, but will now be framed by a mix of new exclusives, in- cluding the Bal Harbour store's first made-to-measure clothing department. Neiman's transformation is only the latest sign that luxury menswear is ex- 80 BAL HARBOUR A Fall look from Tom Ford. periencing a renaissance following three straight years of dismal, declining sales brought on by the economic slowdown. For example, this summer such top brands as Bottega Veneta, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent have all reported double-digit sales increases, and the luxury seg- ment overall has posted significant sales gains for the past 10 consecutive months, according to a recent report in The New York Times. Not only are high-end suits and cashmere sweaters flying off the shelves, but many in the fashion world have taken the lead of the oil industry by deliber- ately creating clothing, footwear and accessories that push the boundaries in terms of both avail- ability and price. To that end, designers are step- ping up production on limited edition suits and sport coats cut from rare wools and other exotic fibers, and this season everything from fur- trimmed crocodile jackets, cashmere turtlenecks, camel-hair top coats and precious alligator lug- gage are making their way into stores, all at prices significantly higher than last year. Price is not a dirty word to the luxury con- sumer, explained Neiman Marcus' Patrick, who says he relies on designers to justify the increased cost. "If the explanation is a good one, then I feel I can give that information to our sales associates so they can explain it to the customer," he told MR, noting how Neiman's customers rarely ask about prices. "In many cases expensive mer- chandise has incredible value," he said, adding "I sometimes wonder why it doesn't cost more." Indeed, while low to moderate-price stores clamor for customers, in the world of luxury fashion "the economic crises is almost over—not for everyone but certainly for those with a strong identity and a reason to stand in the mar- ket," offers suit maker Luca Trabaldo Togna, whose Santandrea company makes suits for Stefano Ricci and, until recently, Ralph Lauren Purple Label. The fashion world, he insists, is undergoing dramatic change, particularly in regards to the avenues available to buy high end clothing, be it on the Internet, through private designer ateliers, or through conventional retail outlets. "Two years ago it was strategic to have specific distribution in key retail shops," says Trabaldo Togna, whose clothing is sold exclusively through a by-appointment-only atelier in New York. "Today the strategy [for high end clothing makers] is to have know-how in production and understand how to produce true craftsmanship," he says, noting how affluent men understand the price/value quotient with high end artisan la- bels like Brioni, Kiton and Attolini, all of which are in greater demand today. "So even if it starts to rain again not everyone has to get wet," he adds.