Issue link: https://www.balharbourdigital.com/i/726108
resident Bill Clinton called Marcus Samuelsson "a chef who has reinvigorated and reimagined what it means to be American." And so, after several years of running the Harlem restaurant Red Rooster, Samuelsson is releasing a cookbook that brings together not only the recipes of the popular spot but also the stories (and style) of the people who inhabit this modern institution. "The Red Rooster Cookbook" is a sequel of sorts to Samuelsson's memoir "Yes, Chef," which delves into his upbringing: first as a young boy in Ethiopia, and then in Sweden where he grew up with his adoptive parents. This new cookbook reflects the lush and layered history, traditions and images of an iconic, and very much changing, New York neighborhood. "What I love best is how Harlem and Rooster allow me to learn, to dream," says Samuelsson. "Muscoota—that's what the Native Americans called this section of Harlem. Run your eyes across the page quickly enough, and the words look like music. Which fits. Music, food, dance, song." Among the recipes that are destined to become at-home favorites is the corn bread—which Samuelsson calls a "core Red Rooster recipe." "I knew from the beginning how I wanted it to taste, but we continue to tinker and change the recipe. This version is very moist, almost custardy." Another of Samuelsson's favorites is catfish and pecans. "In Sweden, catfish tasted of the sea, so I was surprised by the mild flavor of the American freshwater varieties. It has a real meatiness that holds up to nuts. So here we've got a quick fry, topped with a shower of pecans, apples, raisins and capers. Love that play of salty and sweet." 78 BAL HARBOUR HARLEM REJOICES Chef Marcus Samuelsson captures the essence of his storied neighborhood while cooking up style and savor in his latest release, "The Red Rooster Cookbook." BY DANIEL SCHEFFLER PHOTOS BY BOBBY FISHER FROM "THE RED ROOSTER COOKBOOK" (PUX MARTIN/HOUGHTON MIFFLIN HARCOURT) P UPTOWN STYLE WEAR I always love Duro Olowu's patterns. It's all sorts of classic but it's also very modern. For fashion here in Harlem, I look at OGs like Dapper Dan and Lana Turner; both are in "The Red Rooster Cookbook." LISTEN Lately, I've been listening to Girma Yifrashewa at home. Girma is a great Ethiopian classical pianist. And now that we have my nephews and nieces here, Drake is playing constantly. When I run, I still listen to my classic playlist: A Tribe Called Quest and Kendrick Lamar and Swedish music like Little Dragon. EAT Stewed oxtails on the stove is a sure sign of the season at my home. It's a dish near and dear to my heart that I prepared for my good friend Thelma Golden for her father's 85th birthday celebration. I have a recipe for it in "Red Rooster" that is perfect to serve with grits or mashed potatoes. DRINK Fall is the perfect time for brown spirits. I'm a fan of 25-year-old Glenmorangie paired with roasted duck and root vegetables. SEE At MoMA this October, there's an exhibition, "Insecurities: Tracing Displacement and Shelter." It's a powerful exploration of how architecture and design have addressed the needs of shelter for people in refugee camps. Samuelsson shares some of his celebrated recipes, like lemon chicken with green harissa and roast eggplant purée, in his new book out this October.