Issue link: https://www.balharbourdigital.com/i/384868
S ome say that a certain royal sapphire engagement ring—and the vogue it triggered for the precious jewel—was the first sign. The attention garnered by Cate Blanchett's gorgeous opal earrings by Chopard and Amy Adams' elegant Tiffany & Co. turquoise, lapis and rhodochrosite earrings at the 2014 Academy Awards only fueled momentum. And by the time Fall's high-jewelry collections were unveiled—like Bulgari's, which cascades with emeralds, amethysts and aquamarines—there could be no doubt: colored gemstones have acquired new allure for royals, red-carpet regulars and the rest of the world, and are challenging diamonds in the hierarchy of desired jewels. This isn't the first time that colored gemstones have been prized, of course. They have always been bound up in lore that extolled their special properties. Rubies, for example, were deemed the most precious gemstones in ancient Sanskrit texts, while in China, jade was treasured for its alleged power to eternally preserve the body. And during the Renaissance, pearls were seen as a symbol of purity, particularly favored by Elizabeth I, the notoriously chaste English queen. Even if our contemporary concerns are rooted in aesthetic appeal, historical inspiration has nevertheless affected some of David Yurman's new designs. According to Lee Tucker, the brand's executive director of merchandising, Yurman's fascination with Renaissance and ancient-Roman jewelry is a main influencer in the designer's use of color, which includes purple amethyst, soft green prasiolite and golden citrine. For Fall, Tucker says we'll see "smaller-scale bracelets in 18-karat gold featuring emeralds, sapphires and rubies"—elements of color that can be worn daily. But the prevalence of color isn't just for casual pieces. Jewelry connoisseurs recognize that gemstones are every bit as precious and desirable as diamonds and they are willing to spend accordingly. Pomellato pioneered the use of vibrant gems with a relaxed sensibility when it introduced the streamlined Nudo rings in 2001. But beyond the brand's signature styles, according to CEO Andrea Morante, Pomellato also "searches for the most extraordinary stones for its POM POM collection of one- of-a-kind pieces." This year, that translated to a tropical-themed offering that featured luminous cocktail rings with painstaking effects like a "degradé pavé of gems that moves from deep tones of red spinels to tourmalines to purple sapphires." That ability to combine colored gemstones with results that veer subtle and tonal or brazenly clashing is part of the appeal for their wearers and creators. Fawaz Gruosi, founder and creative director of de Grisogono, is single- minded in his approach, insisting that he chooses "precious materials and gemstones with utmost care in pursuit of absolute beauty without being bound by convention." His trailblazing use of materials often overlooked by others and the geometric designs that combine extravagant scale and color bears him out. Meanwhile, in Cannes this summer, Chopard debuted 67 unique Red Carpet Collection designs, many using lavish color that, according to Caroline Scheufele, the house's co-president and creative director, capture "the glamour and voluptuous beauty" of midcentury Italian actresses. But at its root, the attraction to colored stones may come down to something much more basic. Scheufele insists that these jewels can evoke certain emotions. "When I'm looking at a deeply saturated stone," she says, "I can't help but be in awe of these wonders formed by nature." COLOR ( DE ) CODED DIAMONDS MAY BE FOREVER, BUT COLORED GEMSTONES ARE VERY NOW. BY TANYA DUKES 172 BAL HARBOUR